Wn802t bridge setup

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Our experts volunteer their time to help other people in the technology industry learn and succeed. Plans and Pricing. Is it home run? Wherever that point is, is where you'll place your main device. Most of the devices you'll buy at your local home-electronics center are.

You will disable DHCP on this second device. You will put this second device on a non-overlapping wireless channel with the first device. You will give it the exact same SSID and security settings.

This should get you a long way towards complete coverage wirelessly, as well as providing a couple of extra switchports downstream. I'll give this a shot: 1 Modems and routers aren't usually integrated for multiple reasons. The best one I have come across is that most times there is no need to replace a modem, but you may want to upgrade your router for new features Wireless N, dual-band Wireless N radios. Most of the time you want as few pieces of network equipment as possible to reduce points of failure, but separate pieces in a home network allows for modularity when new features are desired.

You don't want to you physically can't plug a cable with an RJ45 end from a network cable into a modem port which would be RJ I never use them, but that's your prerogative. My recommended setup is below. I don't know how many ports you need in your home but I would imagine it's more than four ports.

I would recommend using a gigabit switch connected to your router. This will lighten the load on the router if you intend to share files between computers and let the router solely handle its main function. While I don't know what equipment or online retailers are available in the UK, this is what I would go with in the U.

Frennzy wrote: Quote: Our electrician has wired Cat 5e throughout the key rooms of the house. Yes, all the Cat5e cables lead into my office, of which once bought , the new modem and router will remain. I assume you are referring to a bridge connection? I have one question about this, of which I don't intend to follow up but more to educate myself and confirm something. Of course, the downside is a repeater will half your bandwidth Am I right with all this?

This is exactly the setup I was planning on going for Thank you so much for describing this for me. Although when I do come to actually get these devices I will most probably come back here to confirm it all if that's okay. What's more, just on the bridge topic: 3 If I have 2 x 4 switchport routers setup together in the bridge setup, will that mean that I have 6 free switchports for external devices?

I'll have a look straight after I submit this post on google, but you guys make things so much easier than some of the sources I've found. How does a computer choose which source of the bridge to connect to? I am right in saying that both parts of the bridge will submit a wireless connection? I really appreciate you guys baring with me, usually support forums like these attempt to patronise and emasculate anyone in need of help, couldn't be happier with the attitude here.

However if bridging means I can have 6 switchports available. Then that will be more than enough. I think I'm going all out on this one, so definitely an N router, gigaports will be a neccessity as well as maybe a storage option. I appreciate the links, I will definitely consider that netgear one, however I think I'm leaning more towards Linksys. I don't know why, I've been told that it's expensive but you always get what you pay for.

That kind of guarantee kind of interest me. So to conclude what I now need to search out and purchase. Hold on a second. You mention two routers and "bridging" them which isn't really what you're doing. Keep this in mind and also understand that this will force you to have the source of the wireless signal originating from your office - you'll gain no additional wireless coverage this way. The reason I recommended putting a switch behind the first router is that you can connect all the runs to different rooms into the switch and then place another wireless router with DHCP disabled in any room of the house where you have a free network jack.

This will in essence give you twice the wireless coverage in your house with little to no overlap in wireless signal. You can also connect the computers into any of the 4 LAN ports on this other router so you don't lose the jack in the room to a single piece of equipment the router.

Quote: You mention two routers and "bridging" them which isn't really what you're doing. This is where I get so pissed off at wireless vendors.

However, if the OP means that he wants to use "wireless bridging" that's a different beast and has a few different interpretations depending on the vendor. Avoid this at all costs. Just connect the two devices with Cat5 as said before. Oh dear. This seems to be getting a little messy in my head anyway. I realise I'll only have 3 switch ports on the first router because of the outgoing connection to the other router. Assuming that they were connected by Cat5e, would I only have 3 on the other?

Meaning a total of 6? Quote brshoemak "The reason I recommended putting a switch behind the first router is that you can connect all the runs to different rooms into the switch and then place another wireless router with DHCP disabled in any room of the house where you have a free network jack. I always thought it was a standard function of a router, not an extra burden? I see where you're coming from though. Is a switch just essentially like USB splitter i.

I have one main router upstairs connected directly to the phone line. Then an ethernet cable would be threaded through the walls or however by our electrician to a suitable location downstairs. This is where Router 2 would be. This would basically mean that both routers would submit a wireless signal, thus removing any dead spots. Well this is what I've pieced together from what you guys have taught me.

However I could have easily understood incorrectly, so you're welcome to correct me. Forgive me, this one sounds like a no-brainer. Edit: After feeling like a complete twerp for not understanding this, I did a little research and can conclude I am a complete twerp.

As the house is being rewired a new network jack is being fitted to supplement our sky box, it is possible for it to become a double network jack 2 jacks in one apparently. As I was recommended earlier to remove my ADSL filter by Speedtouch for my internet connection which was acting as a splitter for the phone hub and the gateway from the network jack. So I have a spare network jack. What exactly does this mean? That the routers will not need a Cat5e connection?

I feel like I'm so close to comprehending what you're saying. Bare with me! Instead of two routers, why don't I just get a WAP and extend the network. This is virtually the same as your turning the router into a WAP but there are devices out there designed for this purpose? Sorry, this is just another lead in the research I'm conducting.

Finally, why can I not find modems on websites? Is this what I want? Christ, I have way too many questions, I'm sorry. Frennzy, yeah you're right about the bridging portion and wireless vendor terminology overlap Quote: 1 Am I not going to have 6 switchports in total?

Let me answer your questions first. Placing those kind of ports in a separate piece of hardware would be a switch. If you are NOT going to be sharing files between the computer then what you are proposing should be fine and ignore this next part. If you are going to be sharing files then you should consider that all data including shared files will have to go through the main router connected to the internet that is already busy with internet requests.

If you intend to share files with other computers, think of it this way trying not to confuse you : If you had a corner office with four people in it and they all wanted to share their files between each other would it make more sense and be more efficient to place their file cabinets in the same office or to place the file cabinets at the other end of the office behind a secretary would is busy taking calls?

Not the greatest analogy but I hope you get my point. I was going on the assumption that each in-wall network jack in each room would have an ethernet cable going through the wall and coming back to one single, central point. This would mean all 6? The way you are proposing is fine, except that you will have to run cables from the second router along the floor to your computers.

If they are all relatively close together it's fine but if they are in separate rooms you'll have cables on the floor. When you have all the cables coming back to a single point this is avoided. A run or network run is just a section of permanent ethernet cable that is goes from one place to another - usually in the wall.

When I say a "run" from your router to a network jack it just refers to one single cable that will be installed in the wall. From what you described, since you intend to have the contractor run a cable from the router upstairs to the router downstairs, that's considered a single run.

If he was installing 10 cables from one place to another, that would be 10 runs of CAT5E cable. Another analogy: If I have a TV connected to a cable jack I can't use that jack for anything else, but if I install a cable splitter I can use other TV's behind the splitter.

You'll have to forgive me, I'm used to a certain way of doing home networks from professional work so I am making assumptions based upon prior experience and the pitfalls I have seen from certain configurations. I have done a setup exactly the same as yours before but I found that in a home if you don't have all your network "runs" coming back to one place and a switch with a sufficient number of ports at that central location your setup can become messy if you want to expand it.

Your proposed setup will work fine, it just depends how clean you want it to look avoiding long cables along the floor to computers and if you have plans for any additional wired network jacks in the future. A WAP has only 1 ethernet port on the back and simply converts that ethernet connection into a wireless signal.

Modems - DSL modems seems to be harder to come by since many DSL providers have specific modems they want you to use with specific settings that often come with a their DSL package. I decided to see if I could clear things up with a little diagram of what I hope to happen. Although in hindsight, it's not convenient at all for you to reply to! My apologies. Hopefully it will give you an idea of what's happening.

Try to ignore the External devices, they are just to demonstrate all the devices I plan to be hooked up. What's more is the long wall of text justifying the purchase of the time capsule is definitely not worth it.

Update the router firmware Change the admin password Recover the admin password Display the statistics of the Internet port Monitor Internet traffic Manage the router configuration file Back up the settings Erase the settings Restore the settings Manage remote access Use remote access Set the NTP Server USB device requirements Windows-based computer Your personal FTP server Edit a Port Forwarding Service Port Triggering Add a Port Triggering Service Enable Port Triggering Quick tips Check the WiFi settings Check the network settings Troubleshoot with the LEDs Power LED is off or blinking LEDs never turn off WiFi LED is off You cannot log in to the router You cannot access the Internet Troubleshoot Internet browsing Changes are not saved Factory Settings Technical Specifications For more information about the topics covered in this manual, visit the support website at netgear.

Blinking white. The router is not ready, firmware is upgrading, or the Reset. The port is sending or receiving traffic. No Ethernet cable is connected between the router and the modem. The router is sending or receiving WiFi traffic. A USB device is plugged in and is trying to connect, or a file is. Hardware button and it is now safe to remove the attached USB device. Blinking green. The port is sending or receiving traffic at 5 Gbps or 2. Solid white. A 1 Gbps connection is established.

The port is sending or receiving traffic at 1 Gbps. Solid amber. A Mbps connection is established. Blinking amber. The port is sending or receiving traffic at Mbps.

The router detected a 1 Gbps link with a powered-on device. TherouterdetectedaMbpsor10Mbpslinkwithapowered-on device. No device is connected to this Ethernet port. Viewed from left to right, the rear panel contains the following components: from. Use these ports to connect.

Use Ethernet port 1 with the Internet port to set up a port aggregation link for a Multi-Gig Internet connection. Ethernet ports 3 and 4 are non-aggregate Ethernet ports. You also use the Internet port with Ethernet port 1 to set up a port aggregation link foraMulti-GigInternetconnection. Use a Category 5e Cat5e Ethernet cable or higher rated Ethernet cable to connect a high-speed modem for a high-speed Internet connection. Pressing the Reset button resets the router. Ifthe Reset buttonispressedforatleast10secondsandthePowerLEDblinkswhite, the router returns to its factory settings.

For information about the factory settings, see Factory Settings on page Connectthepoweradapterthatcameintheproductpackage to the DC power connector. Before you install your router, extend the antennas as shown in the following figure. The router lets you access your network anywhere within the operating range of your WiFi network.

However, the operating distance or range of your WiFi connection can vary significantly depending on the physical placement of your router. In addition, position your router according to the following guidelines: from. WiFiaccesspointsarerouters,repeaters,WiFirangeextenders,andanyotherdevice that emits a WiFi signal for network access. Unplug your modem, remove and reinsert the backup battery if it uses one, and then plug the modem back in.

Use the Ethernet cable to connect the modem to the yellow Internet port on the router. Note: If your Internet connection does not require a modem, connect your main Ethernet cable to the yellow Internet port on the router. This chapter explains the ways you can connect and how to access the router and log in. If you set. Make sure that the router is receiving power its Power LED is lit. Connect an Ethernet cable to an Ethernet port on your computer. Connect the other end of the Ethernet cable a LAN port on the router.

Your computer connects to the local area network LAN. On your computer or WiFi device, find and select the WiFi network. The WiFi network name is on the router label. Join the WiFi network and enter the WiFi password. The password is on the router label. Press the WPS button on the router. Separate types of logins serve different purposes. It is important that you understand the differences so that you know which login to use when. Your ISP gave you this login information in a letter or some other way.

If you cannot find this login information, contact your ISP. This information is on the router label. The router login password that you need to log in to the router with the admin user name when you use a web browser to access the router. When you connect to the network either with WiFi or with an Ethernet cable , you can use a web browser to access the router to view or change its settings. When you access the router, the software automatically checks to see if your router can connect to your Internet service.

You can set up your router automatically, or you can use a web browser to access the router and set up your router manually. Before you start the setup process, get your ISP information and make sure that the computers and devices in the network are using the settings described here. For DSL service, you might need. If you cannot locate this information, ask your ISP to provide it. When your Internet connection is working, you no longer need to launch the ISP login program on your computer to access the Internet.

When you start an Internet application, your router automatically logs you in. Installation and basic setup takes about 15 minutes to complete. Make sure that the router is powered on. Make sure that your computer or mobile device is connected to the router with an Ethernet cable wired or over WiFi with the preset security settings listed on the label. Follow the onscreen instructions. The router connects to the Internet.

Review your settings. Make sure that you selected the correct options and typed. Read You cannot access the Internet on page When you first connect to your router and launch a web browser, the browser automatically displays the router web interface.

If you want to view or change settings for the router later, you can use a browser to log in to the router web interface. Launch a web browser from a computer or mobile device that is connected to the router network. Enter the router admin user name and password. The user name is admin. The password is the one that you specified the first time that you logged in.

The user name and password are case-sensitive. With the Nighthawk app, you can easily install and manage your router. Follow the prompts on the app to install your router and connect to the Internet. By default, the language that displays when you log in to the router web interface is set to Auto. A login window opens. In the upper right corner, select a language from the menu. When prompted, click the OK button to confirm this change.

The page refreshes with the language that you selected. Usually, the quickest way to set up the router to use your Internet connection is to allow your router to detect the Internet connection automatically when you first access the routerwebinterface.

You can use the Setup Wizard to detect your Internet settings and automatically set up. The Setup Wizard is not the same as the pages that display the first time.

The Setup Wizard page displays. Going through the heavily accented farmed out across the sea Tech support, I finally got them to send me another one under warranty.

Guess what? They say it's out of warranty and won't do anything I trash that one. Yep out of warranty, but this guy offered up that I could pay for support and they would help me diagnose the problem. Netg will not be purchased for Any company I work for, nor will I recommend it to Anyone no way no how. Pros: This was a nice looking item.

I thought by the reviews that it would have been better. Overall Review: If you want to do this right and actually get some good use from your wireless access, go cisco. It was very stable, had a better range and was much faster. Item : N82E Sold by: Newegg Shipped by Newegg.

Learn More. This item is currently out of stock and it may or may not be restocked. Out of Stock. Add To Wish List. Are you an E-Blast Insider? While other manufacturers use several external antennas to achieve higher data transfer speeds and improved range, Netgear does this with hidden, internal antennas for maximum performance and high-quality streaming with great looks.

Its MIMO Multiple Input, Multiple Output technology minimizes errors and optimizes data speed, while also allowing for broader coverage and longer signal range. Netgear's "Touchless Security" makes network security easy, so your data is always safe from prying eyes.